Once upon a time, lured by the strapping young models in their preppy arcadia, I subscribed to the Abercrombie & Fitch aesthetic–or tried to–until I increasingly realized that its unapologetic vision didn’t include me. I gave it up a long time ago, but this article in Salon profiling A&F’s CEO totally cements it: “The Man Behind Abercrombie & Fitch” (link via Tin Man).
As far as [Mike] Jeffries is concerned, America’s unattractive, overweight or otherwise undesirable teens can shop elsewhere. “In every school there are the cool and popular kids, and then there are the not-so-cool kids,” he says. “Candidly, we go after the cool kids. We go after the attractive all-American kid with a great attitude and a lot of friends. A lot of people don’t belong [in our clothes], and they can’t belong. Are we exclusionary? Absolutely. Those companies that are in trouble are trying to target everybody: young, old, fat, skinny. But then you become totally vanilla. You don’t alienate anybody, but you don’t excite anybody, either.”
Yes, every company has a target demographic, but instead of feeling aspirational (“you’ll look good wearing our clothes”), I find A&F demotivational (“you have to look good to wear our clothes”). See also Gawker for a follow-up with the author of the Salon piece, Benoit Denizet-Lewis.
Another peeve: using “all-American” in reference to looks. In that context, doesn’t “all-American” really mean white (and thus “ideal”)? Ooh, I’m getting all Angry Asian Man.